28 Mar 2014 / Corey Tonkin
Serbia’s most recent difficult history dates back to the 90s where
the country suffered through the initial ramifications of the breakup
of Yugoslavia, civil war, high inflation and high unemployment rates.
For some reason the Western world’s idea of Serbia hasn’t fully moved on from that turbulent period.
Despite this Serbia’s local music and arts scene has flourished in the years since.
Why its nightlife still remains largely uncelebrated in comparison to
Paris or
London
is baffling when you consider that even during the 90s Belgrade managed
to not just to maintain is fervour for nightclubbing but actively
improve it.
When the 1999 NATO bombs dropped down on Yugoslavia Belgrade still
managed to have its own huge outdoor concerts in city squares and on
bridges, just as the city’s nightclubs started operating during the
daytime.
With that period behind them, Belgrade may not be as architecturally
as splendid as its European counterparts, but its nightlife rivals all.
There are countless nightclubs citywide and on the metropolis famous splavs, that is music venues on barges for the uninitiated.
Nightclubs reverberate everything form house music to progressive,
tech house and Serbia’s own turbo-folk, which incorporates folk music
with electronic and pop elements.
While a wide variety of other genres are represented across the
board, there’s an underground scene that has emerged from the scars of
the past.
Canadian bred, but Serbian born producer Ensh takes
The 405
through his birth place’s music scene, detailing a “myriad of small
clubs, cultural centres and re-appropriated spaces. Like Fest, KC Grad
and Inex Film”.
Primarily though he introduces outsiders to an establishment called
BIGZ, which is an multilevel abandoned publishing house that has been
transformed into a creative centre for artists.
The building is home to underground venues, practice spaces and recording studios.
Ensh’s most interesting statement though, is where he describes the artists that make up the creative scenes in Belgrade.
“No one involved in the Belgrade alternative scene plays music
because they have any pretense of “making it”, they just want to play
music. It is that very same passion that has drawn in DIY tours from all
over Europe to Belgrade. It just feels like the right place to be.
There is a combination of naiveté, devotion and wonder that would give
any musical cynic a glimpse of hope.”
As both Ensh and the city’s large number of thriving nightclub’s
demonstrate Belgrade’s music scene is thriving on a number of fronts.
Whether you’re interested in dancing the night away or immersing
yourself into avant-garde culture the Serbian capital is one of Europe’s
must-visit music destinations.
Read on for the 12 things every music fan must do in the Serbian capital.
Having
just won the ‘Best Major European Festival’ award at the 2014 EU
Festival Awards, Serbia’s biggest music event is continually recognised
as one of the greatest music festivals in the continent. Despite it
being held outside of Belgrade in Novi Sad the event is too integral to
the country’s music scene not to be included here. Its foundations are
important to note as well. Founded in 2000 as a student movement
fighting for democracy, it still to this day is an important promoter of
social equality. Held over four days Exit books big name acts such as
Arcade Fire, Portishead, Guns N’ Roses, Bloc Party, Faith No More, Lily
Allen, The Prodigy, Arctic Monkeys, Sex Pistols and Pulp to name just a
few.
Visit A Splav
Splav literally translates to raft in English, although it’s known more
for being a barge restaurant than a floating device. These restaurants
are typically located along the Sava and Danube rivers, which define the
city. Most turn into nightclubs by night with no cover charge on entry.
The music at the splav’s range from folk, pop and rock acts to dance
inspired DJs. You can’t visit Belgrade without hopping aboard at least
one of these floating restaurants or nightclubs.
Pick up a record at Yugovinyl
Toplička 35 Zvezdara
A favourite amongst locals this record store is true to its name.
Selling a variety of vinyl from ex Yugoslavia with titles from major and
minor labels Yugovinyl provides a fascinating insight into the music of
Yugoslavia. There’s even Yu editions of international legends such as
The Beatles, Queen, The Rolling Stones and Elvis Presley.
At the forefront of the ‘New Serbian Scene’ – a collective of pop/rock
artists formed after the year 2000 – this seven-piece outfit has a large
following in the ex-Yu region. With their name translating to ‘Everyone
One The Floor!’ it’s not hard to distinguish just what the band’s
dancefloor aims are. The pop ensemble were voted best band in their
local music scene in 2009 and were awarded best local concert in 2011 by
Serbian website
Popboks
Have a late night at 20/44
Toplička 35 Zvezdara Sava River dock
If there’s any splav nightclub you should visit first it’s this one.
Situated on the banks of the Sava River 20/44 is open all year round.
The sound system echoes a broad range of sounds from Detroit techno to
soul, disco, funk, house and dubstep. The venue is most famous for its
‘Disco Not Disco’ nights which allows the city’s best DJs to experiment
and surprise their audience. Its cheap entry and you can also get a
pretty great view of old Belgrade from the splav in summer.
Take A Walk Down Skadarska Street
Tourists venture down this street because it is filled with quality
restaurants and cafes in the heart of old Belgrade. Paved with
cobblestones and characterised by buildings with impressive murals you
won’t remember a more lively daytime Belgrave than when you’re down
Skadarska. You’ll also experience plenty of live bands and string
orchestras along your walk. Just remember to stop off for some Serbian
cuisine while your walking down this pedestrian street.
Buy vinyl from The Wall
The Wall, Balkanska 29
Toplička 35 Zvezdara
While this record house has no online presence to speak of it’s more
than worth checking out in person. Centred towards metal, punk and rock
it sells vinyls from these genres at pretty competitive prices. Band
merchandise such as hoodies and t-shirts are also for sale here, along
with badges and other forms of memorabilia. The Wall is open Monday to
Friday from 12pm to 6pm and is located on the first floor of a mini
shopping mall.
Catch Gramophonedzie At One Of His Local Shows
Known internationally as the maker behind ‘Why Don’t You’ which reached
the #12 spot in the UK charts, Marko Milićević is one of Serbia’s most
famous DJs. The producer has released a wide array of DJs and a string
of singles to follow up the success of ‘Why Don’t You’, won a European
MTV award and played festivals across the continent.
It is our aim to make all these titles available to all the fans of Yu music and collectors of Yu editions of foreign performers(Beatles,Queen,Rolli